The quintessential image of Spain is the southern region of Andaluc铆a, home of bullfights, flamenco, whitewashed hill towns and glamorous Mediterranean resorts. And while much of the region鈥檚 appeal is in its hill and coastal retreats, at the heart of Andaluc铆a are three great cities: Granada, C贸rdoba and Sevilla.
Granada is the famous last home of the (Muslim) Moors, who were driven out of Spain and back to Africa in 1492 during the Reconquista 鈥� the 鈥渞econquering鈥� of Spain by Spaniards and Christians.
Its top sight is the Alhambra, the last and greatest Moorish palace in Europe. Perched atop a hill and filled with colourful ornate stucco, scalloped filigree windows, exuberant gardens, bubbling fountains and peaceful pools, the palace highlights the splendor of Moorish civilization in the 13th and 14th centuries.
While much of Granada feels Spanish, the Albayz铆n 鈥� the old Moorish quarter 鈥� retains its labyrinthine, Moroccan-souk feel. Located on a hill across from the Alhambra, it has stunning views across to the palace.
I like to come here at sunset and eat at one of the view restaurants or picnic at the San Nicol谩s terrace, which comes with great Roma (Gypsy) music nearly all day long. Pop a few euros into the musicians鈥� hat and enjoy an open-air concert as good as many you might pay much more for.
Because of its significance in the Reconquista, Isabel and Ferdinand, the greatest king and queen of Spain, decided to use Granada as their capital. It was here that they listened to Christopher Columbus鈥檚 final pitch for a sea voyage to the Orient and agreed to finance the trip. At the Royal Chapel, travellers can view the king and queen鈥檚 elaborately carved Renaissance-style tombs.
About 160 kilometres northwest of Granada is C贸rdoba, another great Moorish city and home to the Mezquita, a splendid former mosque. Once the heart of Western Islam鈥檚 cultural capital, the Mezquita has lost little of its grandeur over time 鈥� making it easy for visitors to imagine the ambience of Islamic C贸rdoba in its 10th-century prime. Inside the mosque, a huge 16th-century cathedral rises up from the centre. When the Christians came, instead of destroying the mosque, they built their church in the middle.
Though some travellers stop in C贸rdoba for just a few hours to blitz the Mezquita, it鈥檚 worth spending a night here to explore other aspects of the city: the untouristy modern district; the Jewish quarter, with a small yet beautifully preserved synagogue; and the city鈥檚 pride 鈥� its patios. These delightful little edens serve as outdoor living spaces, hiding behind intricate ironwork gates and filled with flowers overflowing from their pots over whitewashed walls, amid colourful ceramics and doors.
Just 45 minutes by high-speed train from C贸rdoba is Sevilla, the capital of Andaluc铆a. While Granada has the great Alhambra and C贸rdoba has the remarkable Mezquita, Sevilla has a soul.
Sevilla鈥檚 two big sights are its cathedral and royal palace. Unlike in C贸rdoba, Reconquista Christians ripped down Sevilla鈥檚 mosque to build a cathedral, announcing their intention to make it so big that 鈥渁nyone who sees it will take us for madmen.鈥� Today it鈥檚 still the second-largest church in Europe, after St. Peter鈥檚 at the Vatican.
Just a few remnants of the former mosque remain, including the giant bell tower, which was once the minaret. Today, visitors can spiral up the ramp to the top of the bell tower for grand views. The cathedral also houses Christopher Columbus鈥檚 tomb, which is being hoisted up by four kings.
Sevilla鈥檚 old palace (Alc谩zar) is decorated with a mix of Islamic and Christian elements 鈥� a style called Mudejar. While the Alhambra in Granada was built by Moors for their own rulers, Sevilla鈥檚 Alc谩zar was built by Moorish artisans in the Moorish style, mostly for Christian rulers.
Spectacularly decorated halls and courtyards have distinctive Islamic-style flourishes, such as elaborate designs on stucco, colourful ceramic tile, lobed arches atop slender columns, and Arabic writing on the walls.
The palace is also where Queen Isabel administered the business of the country鈥檚 nautical explorations. In the Admiral鈥檚 Hall, Columbus recounted his travels and Magellan planned his around-the-world cruise. Today, exhibits call up the era of Columbus and Spain鈥檚 New World dominance.
When visiting Sevilla, flamenco is a must. This music-and-dance art form has its roots in the Roma and Moorish cultures. The men do most of the flamboyant machine-gun footwork while the women often concentrate on graceful turns and smooth, shuffling steps.
In the raspy-voiced wails of the singers, you鈥檒l hear echoes of the Muslim call to prayer. Performances range from serious concerts to tourist-centric shows to impromptu late-night sessions at casual bars 鈥� but even the touristy shows are rich with soulfulness.
Southern Spain鈥檚 three big cities provide an interesting look at the Moorish influence on Spanish culture. Each is worth a visit for insight into this unique corner of Europe.
Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.