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Small Screen: No Passport Required explores ethnic cuisine

PASADENA, California 鈥 What makes America great? If you ask chef Marcus Samuelsson, it鈥檚 food and the diverse ways it landed on our plates.
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Chef Diana Davila, left, and Chef Marcus Samuelsson sample some of her Mexican food in Chicago. Samuelsson will visit six cities, sampling ethnic food he finds there on the new PBS series, No Passport Required, premiering July 10.

PASADENA, California 鈥 What makes America great? If you ask chef Marcus Samuelsson, it鈥檚 food and the diverse ways it landed on our plates.

Samuelsson, the James Beard Award-winning chef and restaurateur, will prove that point when he hosts No Passport Required, premi猫ring on PBS July 10.

Samuelsson and his team will visit six cities, uncovering little pockets of ethnic cuisine and the exotic cultures that created them.

He is an immigrant himself. He was born in Ethiopia but grew up in Sweden, where he and his sister were adopted by a Swedish geologist and his wife. Samuelsson learned his craft from watching his grandmother, Helga, in the kitchen, he says.

鈥淪he was an amazing cook, and she helped me from meatballs to dumplings, to just learning about herring, and all this stuff. And for me, as a six-year-old, to learn the values of cooking and understanding flavour points, and I鈥檝e only had one job 鈥 to work with food. I鈥檓 always so excited to represent her and the chefs and the mentors that I鈥檝e had that come from all backgrounds 鈥 鈥

The show will explore such enclaves of culinary cross-pollination as the Vietnamese in New Orleans, Mexicans in Chicago, Haitian culture in Miami, Ukrainian-Russian traditions in Seattle.
鈥淭his partnership will 鈥 represent my journey and also the journey of all the chefs that gave someone from my kitchen or myself a shot,鈥 he says.

鈥淎nd yeah, it鈥檚 funny what you can learn in grandma鈥檚 kitchen.鈥

Samuelsson thinks the immigrant experience is unique, and he understands it well.

鈥淭hey鈥檙e uprooted very often,鈥 he says. 鈥淭here鈥檚 something dramatic happening in their country. They were uprooted from everything and came to America, and very often food 鈥 even if they had other gigs and other jobs and other things in their homeland 鈥 food was their first entr茅e into this country. And they made a living out of it. And I think that shows how incredible America is and can be and will be. And I think we, as content providers, have a huge opportunity and responsibility to show that.鈥

Samuelsson studied at the Culinary Institute in Gothenburg, Sweden, and later apprenticed in Austria and Switzerland.

He was 23 when he immigrated to the U.S. and landed a job as an apprentice at an upscale restaurant in Manhattan.

A year later, he became the executive chef there and copped a three-star review from the New York Times.

He has a grown daughter and a two-year-old son. He says he wonders about teaching his son the proper values.

鈥淗ow do I explain for him this moment and where were you during this moment? Did you add something to the conversation 鈥 when he鈥檚 15, 12 or 20? As an immigrant, I left cushy Sweden to come to America because I believed in diversity, right? And this is something that you can really [see] as an immigrant. We鈥檙e challenged at this moment as people of a diverse background. We鈥檙e challenged to be able to tell a yummy, delicious story that is about food, but is also about culture,鈥 he says.

鈥淲e鈥檙e going to see people, maybe we go to a wedding, or maybe we go to a DJ set, and what鈥檚 the food after that? Maybe we go to karaoke. We will be able to bring so many different cultures into this and be able to bring them to people鈥檚 homes and then also add commentary around that.鈥

Samuelsson, 47, thinks the show will be distinctive. 鈥淏ecause you can follow up with comments and create communities that are strong, and we can follow up in a way, whether it鈥檚 on social media or through other ways that maybe you wouldn鈥檛 have the opportunity on other shows.鈥

While everyone may have his favourite Chinese or Mexican restaurant, there are countless other ethnic delights to be sampled, says Samuelsson. 鈥淲hat鈥檚 amazing as a cook and as a food lover is our diversity. Whatever happens, try to go somewhere else in the world. About 20, 30 years later, we have that food in our country, and it鈥檚 amazing. We鈥檙e better for it 鈥 I wouldn鈥檛 even imagine how America would taste without immigrants, and that restaurant or food has been that first entry point. What鈥檚 cool now is that something like Eater (an online food site and co-producer) devotes a whole editorial team to not just tell the story about the fancy restaurant, but actually tells the story about Sri Lankan food in Staten Island or Ethiopian food in D.C.鈥

The PBS producer of the series, Pamela A. Aguilar, describes Passport this way: 鈥淚t鈥檚 Marcus coming into a city, meeting individual characters, and then through their stories and their experiences really diving deep into that immigrant community. But it鈥檚 also [about] how there鈥檚 always a fusion within the greater American culture and then seeing what those touch points are, and how then we can celebrate the differences and also celebrate the bridging of it all. So therefore, [with] No Passport Required, you can basically go around the world but stay in the U.S. because we celebrate everyone equally.鈥