MILAN (AP) 鈥� Silvia Venturini Fendi plucked heirlooms from an aristocratic family hope chest and embellished them with details long released from the feminine realm for a highlands-stomping menswear collection previewed Saturday during
Venturini Fendi said she was inspired by Princess Anne, whom she called 鈥渢he chicest woman in the world,鈥� capable of 鈥渕aintaining her femininity while wearing a uniform,鈥� the epitome of masculinity.
Generous overcoats, leather wellies and rumpled cloche defined the outdoorsy Fall-Winter 2024-25 silhouette fit for Balmoral. The color palette recalled a rainy day on the highlands: moss, brown, slate gray and maroon, cornflower blue, mustard.
Underneath, loose trousers with pretty side plisses transition into long pleated Bermuda kilts and low-slung skorts in plaid blanket wool, blurring lines between masculinity and femininity, between tradition-bound aristocracy and contemporary streetwear.
They were paired with the finest twinsets, or thrice-layered knit tanks, forming a depth of color.
鈥淚 liked the idea of breaking barriers, breaking the masculine and feminine codes, that don鈥檛 exist anymore. They shouldn鈥檛 exist anymore,鈥欌�� Venturini Fendi, the brand鈥檚 director of accessories and menswear, said backstage.
The runway mood was casual, off hours. Jackets were more often flung over the arm than worn, a signal that the day鈥檚 work was done. Soft corduroy trousers fell into slit hemlines that flop over thick-soled sneakers. A pillowy bag was tucked under the arm. For the evening, soft suits and overcoats with shimmery surfaces and nearly sheer long knitwear over trousers gave a touch of decadence.
As is the recent Milan trend, the Fendi logo appeared sparingly, as geometric repeat pattern on checked double-Fs on bright prints or covering a portable music speaker made in collaboration with French brand Devialet.
Venturini Fendi said the collection is about longevity, creating heirlooms, 鈥渢o underline garments for life, not use and throw away.鈥�
By Colleen Barry, The Associated Press
