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Kronthaler鈥檚 carnival: Westwood鈥檚 legacy finds its maverick heir in Paris

PARIS (AP) 鈥 An afternoon of stardom, surprise and style reverberated in the heart of Paris Fashion Week on Saturday. As Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood unfolded, it became clear: Fashion鈥檚 wild heart is alive and beating stronger than ever.
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A model wears a creation for the Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear fashion collection presented Saturday, Sept. 30, 2023 in Paris. (AP Photo/Vianney Le Caer)

PARIS (AP) 鈥 An afternoon of stardom, surprise and style reverberated in the heart of Paris Fashion Week on Saturday. As Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood unfolded, it became clear: Fashion鈥檚 wild heart is alive and beating stronger than ever.

Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2024 shows.

FROM PANTOMIME TO PUNK: A SPECTACLE UNFOLDS

Pantomime ponchos, tribal silk headdresses and melted cake-like hats? Only Kronthaler could blend such disparate elements with such flair. The eccentric behind this show is no stranger to the spotlight, and it鈥檚 clear he鈥檚 carving his niche within the Westwood legacy.

With celebrities like Pamela Anderson and Christina Hendricks in the front row and unmistakable cheers from Place Vendome, the brand鈥檚 meteoric rise in recent years was evident. Inside, anticipation built, amplified by gleaming percussion instruments.

Delving into Kronthaler鈥檚 history with Westwood, one can trace his growth. While inspired by Westwood鈥檚 punk roots, he鈥檚 not afraid to introduce his own distinct flavor. This season solidified that transformation.

The toggle mask, a daring take on traditional religious veils, and a gold devore tunic that could have been a costume piece for Shakespeare鈥檚 magical character Ariel, showcased his blend of humor and fashion finesse. But it wasn鈥檛 all quirkiness. A medieval looking gray jacket, boasting sharply sculpted lapels, cinched waist, statement sleeves and intricate stitching details, underscored Kronthaler鈥檚 mastery in crafting elegance. Kronthaler鈥檚 tribute to Westwood was touching: 鈥淪he truly traveled in her mind. I owe her so much.鈥

This wasn鈥檛 just another fashion show; it was a declaration of a brand evolving yet honoring its roots.

PAMELA ANDERSON CHAMPIONS ENVIRONMENTAL CAUSES AT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SHOW

At Vivienne Westwood, former Baywatch star Pamela Anderson, a fervent environmental activist herself, donned a striking Westwood hat and passionately spoke about her admiration for the late fashion designer鈥檚 commitment to environmental causes. Anderson hailed Westwood as a 鈥渃limate revolutionary,鈥 expressing her deep respect for the designer鈥檚 proactive stance on climate change.

Anderson remarked on how Westwood was ahead of her time in recognizing the urgency of climate change and how she often faced frustration when trying to convey her message. 鈥淪he always was trying to get her point across,鈥 Anderson said in an interview with The Associated Press, noting that many are now realizing that Westwood was right all along.

The luxury sector鈥檚 responsibility was also highlighted, with Anderson candidly stating, 鈥淭he fashion industry should be doing more.鈥 She lauded the efforts of designers like Stella McCartney and Chloe for moving in a more sustainable direction, but remained insistent on the fashion to further its environmental endeavors.

Echoing Westwood鈥檚 philosophy, Anderson emphasized the value of quality over quantity in consumer choices: 鈥淰ivienne always said buy one great thing a year. Don鈥檛 buy a lot of crap.鈥

CARVEN鈥橲 LEGACY REBORN: A FUSION OF PAST AND PRESENT

As the fall sun unveiled Carven鈥檚 fresh designs on Saturday morning, it wasn鈥檛 just about the latest collection but an homage to its storied 78-year journey.

Taking center stage, new designer Louise Trotter introduced the collection, masterfully weaving iconic elements of the brand鈥檚 heritage with a forward-looking aesthetic. From its inception in 1945 by trailblazer Marie-Louise Carven, the house was hailed for its luxury merged with the accessibility, bringing haute couture down to the streets. Carven鈥檚 revolutionary 鈥淢a Griffe鈥 fragrance and petite sizes for French women further cemented its iconic status in the annals of fashion.

Fast forward to today鈥檚 runway: about 40 meticulously crafted silhouettes radiated both reverence and rejuvenation. Signature high-waisted trousers, cinched blouses, and sleek A-line dresses reminded long-time aficionados of Carven鈥檚 penchant for emphasizing the waist and hips. The new-age touch came through modern monochrome suits, airy tiered skirts, and pastel trenches. A particularly striking look paired a draped satin blouse with a structured leather skirt, epitomizing the fusion of the brand鈥檚 enduring elegance and contemporary fierceness.

Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press