PARIS (AP) 鈥� Paris Fashion Week鈥檚 fall shows, headlining with Balmain, traversed an encyclopedic range from history to the future, blending tradition with cutting-edge innovation.
Designers delved into archives on Wednesday to reinterpret the past while projecting forward with futuristic silhouettes and materials. From utilitarian details that ground regal aesthetics in the contemporary to surreal interplays of form and texture, the collections celebrated the industry鈥檚 ability to innovate while honoring its past.
Here are some highlights of fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear collections:
BALMAIN鈥橲 NOSTALGIC TRIP TO BORDEAUX
Cher led the VIP pack at Balmain鈥檚 latest fall show, as Olivier Rousteing embarked on a personal journey back to his roots.
The designer drew inspiration from the 鈥済reen thumb鈥� of the house鈥檚 founder, Pierre Balmain, and the verdant landscapes of his upbringing in Bordeaux. Known for his sharp tailoring and bold aesthetics, Rousteing this season wove a story filled with natural motifs, bringing a touch of the 鈥減rovincial鈥� to the Paris runway.
鈥淭oday I鈥檓 returning to Bordeaux, the city that formed me,鈥� Rousteing reflected. He said his collection blended Pierre Balmain鈥檚 iconic 鈥淣ew French Style,鈥� characterized by its bold architectural lines and precise tailoring, with the 鈥済raceful dignity of Bordeaux.鈥�
This fusion was evident in nature-inspired designs, from earrings shaped like bunches of grapes to garments adorned with grape embroideries, prints and even whimsical snail buttons. A standout piece, a snail-shell golden breastplate, captured the audience鈥檚 attention, prompting a flurry of camera clicks from the VIP guests.
Vibrant grape embroideries punctuated the palette of khaki and black across silhouettes that nodded to the 鈥�80s. Adding a burst of color and humor, a bright red net shopping bag evoked memories of hometown markets for Rousteing, infusing the collection with a sense of levity.
While the organic musings stayed within the familiar territory of Balmain鈥檚 aesthetic under Rousteing, the collection was noteworthy for its diversity, particularly in casting models of all ages to present the 56 designs.
DRIES VAN NOTEN BLENDS HISTORY WITH WHIMSY
Belgian designer sews history, tension, and elegance into each look. His latest womenswear show was no exception, kicking off with a display of grandeur meeting a contemporary edge. The opener, a thick beige coat seeming regal, was immediately grounded in the present with a utilitarian studded collar, reminiscent of a choker, steering clear of vintage territory.
Van Noten, a master of blending the old with the new, further demonstrated this skill with a simple gray skirt that draped in a manner both fashion-forward and evoking the turn of the (last) century. A loose top managed to straddle the worlds of sportswear and the refined elegance of Princess Anne of Britain, showcasing Van Noten鈥檚 unique ability to navigate between different eras and styles.
The show was a visual feast of illusions and contrasts. The sleeves were cut to make them almost two-dimensional, an innovative play on perspective that challenges the viewer鈥檚 gaze. Sweaters seemed to animate, embracing their wearers in a dance of fabric and form. This interplay of textures and colors created a dynamic energy and poetry that has become a Van Noten hallmark.
THE CHARMING TRADITION OF FASHION INVITATIONS IN THE DIGITAL ERA
In an age where digital communication reigns supreme and environmental consciousness is rising, the fashion industry鈥檚 cherished practice of creating elaborate, often handmade invitations continues to thrive. Each season, these unique pieces of art crisscross Paris, hand-delivered to the guests, serving as a creative prelude to the spectacle of the runway shows.
Despite the digital shift, top fashion houses remain dedicated to crafting imaginative invitations that hint at the theme of their upcoming collections. For example, 鈥檚 invitation, a watercolor painting set against a tree-lined landscape within a soft leather frame, showcased the brand鈥檚 commitment to combining art with fashion. Meanwhile, Chloe鈥檚 invitation, a giant leather keyring adorned with a golden metal banana, introduced a playful element to Chemena Kamali鈥檚 anticipated debut. Rick Owens personalized the experience with a white fabric neckpiece bearing the guest鈥檚 name. Yohji Yamamoto鈥檚 invitation, an enigmatic black plastic cutout of a human face in profile, added a layer of mystery.
These invitations, rich in creativity and craftsmanship, underscore the fashion industry鈥檚 appreciation for tradition and personal touch in an increasingly virtual world 鈥� while they may seem at odds with growing ecological concerns.
COURREGES PUTS ON SALEABLE FUTURISM
In a saleable display of monochrome, Nicolas di Felice unveiled his latest collection for on a pared-down, sanitized white runway, drawing fashion insiders into a world where Andre Courreges鈥� space-age legacy meets the enigmatic allure of underwater scuba wear, all while channeling a dash of 鈥�90s nostalgia.
Fall was a study in cool, low-energy sophistication. Each piece boasted minimalist utilitarian details鈥攆lappy tassels, headwear caps reminiscent of scuba gear, and geometric paneling with scooped-out shapes that spoke of intergalactic adventures. One of the models鈥� arms was often loose, appearing bare, tucking in the front of a garment, as the sleeve it was meant to occupy hung stiffly and empty at the side in a surreal touch. This geometry, a reverential homage to Courreges鈥� founding vision, was reimagined through di Felice鈥檚 contemporary eye.
Noteworthy were fashion-forward elements like pale body panels that cleverly played with the silhouette, erasing the traditional shape of the torso and introducing a fresh narrative on form and space. 鈥�90s influences were palpable, from the layering of skirts over pants to a chub coat that wouldn鈥檛 seem out of place in the wardrobe of 鈥淕ame of Thrones鈥欌�� Jon Snow.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
