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Garden Notes: Pruning young, shrubby plants aids development

Dear Helen: I鈥檝e been debating with my partner whether to cut the flower stems off a group of small lavender plants installed in a garden plot this spring. I think removing them would help the plants to fill out better. She wants the flowers. P.L.

Dear Helen: I鈥檝e been debating with my partner whether to cut the flower stems off a group of small lavender plants installed in a garden plot this spring. I think removing them would help the plants to fill out better. She wants the flowers.

P.L.

Dear P.L.: At the risk of contributing to household strife, I have to say I鈥檓 strongly in favour of pruning and shaping very young, shrubby plants as they begin developing.

In the 2016 Richters Herbs catalogue, I spotted a new lavender called Phenomenal and ordered five plants for a bed I was renovating. The very small plants took hold beautifully and in late May began forming a few flower stems. I cut them off, and will probably do another light trimming soon to keep the plants tidy.

The effect of the trimming has been gratifying, as the little lavender plants are forming neatly plump little bushes. Hopefully, these will be long-term landscape plants. A little spring and early summer pruning will help to give them a shapely start.

Dear Helen: Last year, my raspberry canes wilted and dried up suddenly, just as they were about to produce a crop of berries. Because I thought that inadequate drainage might be the problem, I re-formed the bed by raising it up and replanting in the elevated area. But the same thing happened again this year.

M.G.

Dear M.G.: You are probably dealing with raspberry root rot, caused by water moulds whose spores swim in soil water to infect roots and crowns. Plants in poorly drained soils are most susceptible.

If you planted canes taken from the original, infected planting, and if some of the soil remained the same or the new planting was close by the old, some of the infectious organisms probably remained. As well, the frequent, heavy rains of last winter meant that some soils would have still been wet in the spring, as root rot spores became active.

Consider a new planting, using purchased, disease-free plants, in a new, sunny area as far away from the current planting as possible. Make sure the soil drains well and is adequately supplied with calcium, which helps to suppress rot rot. You can plant in the fall, though, in your situation, early spring may be safer.

The everbearing raspberry Autumn Bliss has some resistance to root rot. Among the summer-bearing raspberry varieties with some tolerance to the disease are Meeker, Nootka, Latham, Cascade Bounty and Cascade Delight. Malahat and Tulameen are especially susceptible to root rot.

Remove the infected planting, roots and all, and dispose of it. Do not place in the compost.

Dear Helen: Is there anything I can do now to keep my border sedums (the taller types) from flopping over with the weight of the flower heads in late summer?

F.L.

Dear F.L.: Cutting the stems back will help to produce more compact, sturdy plants. Ideal timing for a severe cutting back, by about a half, is late May to early June. Now, I鈥檇 trim the stems back less drastically, by about a third.

Dear Helen: You write from time to time about radicchio as a desirable fall and winter crop. When and how do you plant the seeds?

S.D.

Dear S.D.: I seed my main planting indoors in late June to early July. I rarely sow fall and winter vegetables outdoors in summer. Germination is too uncertain in the heat. Besides, in flats you know exactly what you鈥檝e got. I transplant, usually into the large, vacated pea bed, in August as temperatures begin to cool.

I also do smaller radicchio seedings indoors in January or February, for spring harvesting. Bel Fiore from Johnny鈥檚 Selected Seeds has done especially well for me this year. I鈥檝e just harvested a plump head for tonight鈥檚 salad. Castelfranco (Chiltern Seeds) is another favourite. Both have green and cream leaves beautifully marked in red and pink.

GARDEN EVENT

Lily show, sale and tea. The Victoria Lily Society is hosting a lily show, plant sale and tea on Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the Salvation Army Citadel gymnasium, 4030 Douglas St. (at MacKenzie). This annual judged show features lilies, roses, potted plants and flower arrangements. The plant sale will include lilies, ferns, succulents and selected plants from society members. Home-made scones and sweets will be featured at the tea. Society members will be on hand to answer questions about growing lilies. Admission is by donation.