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Around Town: Un d卯ner en blanc merveilleux

They came wearing white kilts, top hats, Nehru jackets, Venetian masks, low-cut minidresses and wedding gowns, ready to party with style at a posh pop-up picnic.

They came wearing white kilts, top hats, Nehru jackets, Venetian masks, low-cut minidresses and wedding gowns, ready to party with style at a posh pop-up picnic.

The fourth annual Le D卯ner en Blanc was underway outside Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe, the secret harbourside location that wasn鈥檛 revealed until moments before 1,700 diners would cross the Johnson Street Bridge to get there.

While 鈥渨hiteout鈥 usually described severe wintry conditions in other Canadian cities, it applied to Victoria with a twist Thursday night during this epicurean phenomenon.

Even the venue was dressed for the occasion, with white stars dangling from trees, huge white balloons framing a grassy pathway, white leather couches on the lawn and a giant, twinkling white LOVE sign.

You couldn鈥檛 blame kayakers and Victoria Harbour Ferry passengers for doing double-takes this windy evening as a sea of foodies and fashionistas waved white napkins while dining al fresco.

The upscale event, previously held at Fisherman鈥檚 Wharf, Ship Point and St.聽Ann鈥檚 Academy, was inspired by the 1988 original launched in Paris. Like others held each year in 25聽countries, participants must abide by rules set by Montreal-based D卯ner en Blanc International. They distinguish a commercial enterprise some critics complain is too precious and exclusive.

Conditions include dressing entirely in white, bringing and setting up your own portable white table, chairs, tablecloth, picnic basket and food, with D卯ner en Blanc food and wine also available for purchase.

News spreads through word of mouth, with guests given the opportunity to invite guests for the following year鈥檚 event.

It wasn鈥檛 as pretentious as expected 鈥 one diner even brought her picnic in a white laundry basket 鈥 and there was plenty of diverting eye candy.

Humour was also abundant, including quips about whether photographers could set their 鈥渨hite balance,鈥 paranoia about red-wine stains and 鈥渏ust look for the guy dressed in white鈥 wisecracks.

鈥淲e鈥檙e a foursome. It鈥檚 like a golf game today,鈥 said Darren Cole, his white sunglasses shielding him from sunshine that broke through cloud cover.

鈥淲e have a beautiful city with great people and what better way to celebrate. How often can you do this?鈥

Table-mate Leah Merceronni designed the white wedding dress she wore, as well as her faux-fur white headpiece and matching purse.

鈥淚 want to stand out,鈥 she said while the Dixie Dreamboat played.

Victoria organizing committee chair Aidan Henry said the event鈥檚 unique appeal accounts for its huge turnout.

鈥淚t鈥檚 a whole bunch of little parties going on within one big party,鈥 he said. 鈥淥nce a year, it gives people a chance to come out of their shell.鈥

While keeping its location secret can be challenging in the social media age, Henry said they鈥檝e only had one issue. Someone posted last year鈥檚 location at noon but took it down when asked.

鈥淚t鈥檚 like magic,鈥 he said. 鈥淵ou just don鈥檛 ask how the trick is done.鈥

Chef Dan Hayes, the London Chef owner who provided three catered gourmet food options in white picnic boxes, didn鈥檛 have to dress up.

鈥淚 sleep, eat, breathe and do everything else wearing this from sometimes 5 in the morning to midnight,鈥 smiled Hayes, wearing his white chef鈥檚 outfit.

鈥淲e don鈥檛 know where the event is [beforehand] so that鈥檚 a slight spanner in the works,鈥 he said. 鈥淲e鈥檙e taking a picnic to the next level. Of course in France they do this so well, don鈥檛 they?鈥

Sporting a white dinner jacket, Victoria actor Jeffrey Stephen said it was 鈥渢he impulsiveness of it鈥 that attracted him.

鈥淥nlookers will see a green pasture and, 10 minutes later, the whole thing is filled with a five-star restaurant.鈥

Al Hasham, the Greater Victoria Chamber of Commerce chairman whose company Maximum Express handles the event鈥檚 liquor distribution, lauded its economic benefits.

鈥淔riends going with me were at the Bay Centre buying white umbrellas in case it rained,鈥 he said.