One of my most lingering summer memories is of family road trips and my dad's favourite snack as we drove: fresh cherries. He would share and their addictive, give-me-more-flavour to this day still reminds me of journeys to the beach, park or fishing hole.
Those cherries were sweet cherries, one of two main types; the other is the sour cherry. Both of these cultivated cherries are descendants of two wild varieties native to western Asia, said to have grown as far back as 300 BC.
English settlers brought seeds to North America to grow cherry trees. Climatic conditions determined where a sweet, and a sour, cherry tree would best grow. According to an article on Statistics sa国际传媒's website (statcan.gc.ca), sour cherries are produced mainly in the northern hemisphere. They are hardier than sweet cherries and can tolerate milder summers and cooler winters. Ontario has traditionally been sa国际传媒's leading sour cherry-producing region, but Statistics sa国际传媒 says that the development of sour cherry trees even better suited to harsher climates has seen a rise in trees being planted in areas not considered prime fruit-growing regions, such as the Prairies.
The pale-fleshed Montmorency is by far the most common, commercially grown sour cherry variety, but there are numerous other types. According to the sa国际传媒 Agriculture website (agf.gov.bc.ca), almost all sour cherries are processed into such things as frozen, canned or dried sour cherries, juice, pie-fillings and preserves. Consequently, finding fresh sour cherries for sale for home use can be a bit of challenge, unless you or a sharing friend has a tree, or you live in an area where sour cherries are commercially grown and some of that fruit is sold at the farm gate, a farmers' market, or a food store. For example, Rosemeade Farms on the Saanich Peninsula grows sour cherries and sells them at the Peninsula Country Market on Saturday mornings. However, grower Norrie Spencer says supply is very limited and they sell out quickly. (For other farms growing and selling cherries on Vancouver Island, visit islandfarmfresh.com and click on products.) Sweet cherries do well in areas where summers are warm and winters reasonably mild, such as southern Ontario and sa国际传媒's Okanagan, Similkameen and Kootenay valleys, where the majority of sa国际传媒's sweet cherries are grown.
The most common type of sweet cherry is the bing, but a number of other types are grown, such as the lambert, van, lapins and sweetheart. Another sweet cherry variety growing in popularity is the rainier; a cross between a bing and van cherry created in Washington state in the 1950s. Rainier cherries have a creamy-yellow flesh and a skin tinted yellow and red. One article I read called the rainier cherry, now grown in places such as the Okanagan Valley, the sweetest, prettiest and most pampered of cherries. The reason they are pampered is because they are highly sensitive to weather conditions and the grower must keep a close on eye them to ensure they don't bruise or burst. This added attention, plus a limited supply and high demand, explains why rainier cherries are more expensive than the regular sweet cherries. Sweet cherries are generally sold fresh, for eating as is or use in a wide range of recipes, such as chilled soups, salads and, of course, desserts. They can also be turned into preserves or be frozen. (The Association of Saskatchewan Home Economists website offers great tips on food preservation; visit homefamily.net and click on food and nutrition.) When buying fresh sweet or sour cherries, opt for plump, vibrantly coloured fruit.
Sweet cherries should feel firm, not hard. Sour cherries should also feel firm, but be a little softer and have more give than sweet cherries.
Unless you plan to eat or use them that day, sort through the cherries and discard any that are damage, and then store them, unwashed, in a perforated plastic bag (what they are often sold in) in the refrigerator.
If very fresh, they will keep for several days. Wash the cherries just before using. Nutritionally, low-in-calorie cherries are sometimes referred to as one of the "super fruits." They contain fibre; a number of vitamins, such as A, C and B; minerals, such as potassium and iron; and a range of antioxidants. I'm not sure if my dad knew that when he ate them. But I'm sure he would have agreed with this quote by famed film and theatre director Bob Fosse: "Life is just a bowl of cherries, don't take it serious, it's mysterious. Life is just a bowl of cherries, so live and laugh and laugh at love, love a laugh, laugh and love."
Eric Akis's columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
RECIPES
PICKLED CHERRIES WITH WHITE WINE VINEGAR, TARRAGON
This is a tart treat you can nibble on as an appetizer or snack with nuts and a creamy cheese, such as blue, Brie or goat. It's best to let the cherries sit at least a month to allow flavours to meld before serving.
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: About 15 minutes
Makes: 4 (500 ml) jars
7 cups (about 3 lbs) fresh, sweet cherries, stems attached, free of bruising or soft spots
4 (4- to 5-inch long) sprigs of fresh tarragon, rinsed and dried
4 tsp pickling salt
2 cups white wine vinegar
2 cups water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
Place the cherries in a bowl, cover with cold water and gently swirl to wash them. Drain the cherries well, set them on a towel and gently roll and pat them dry. Set a sprig of tarragon in each of four (500 ml) sterilized canning jars. Sprinkle a teaspoon of salt into each jar. Divide and place the cherries in the jars, leaving a half-inch head space at the top.
Place the vinegar, water and sugar in a pot. Bring to a simmer and stir to dissolve the sugar. Pour the mixture over the cherries. Wipe the rims clean. Top the jars with the sterilized canning lids. Apply screw band until fingertip-tight. Heat- process the cherries submerged in boiling water for 10 minutes.
Remove from the water and cool on a rack to room temperature. Check the seals; a properly sealed lid will curve downward. Label and store jars in a cool, dark place.
GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST WITH SOUR CHERRY GINGER SAUCE
Tender chicken topped with a fine-flavoured, ginger-laced sour cherry sauce.
You can use fresh, canned or frozen sour cherries to make this dish.
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: About 12 minutes
Makes: 4 servings
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup orange juice
2 Tbsp brown sugar, or to taste
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp cornstarch
2 tsp finely grated fresh ginger
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
32 to 36 fresh, canned or frozen sour cherries, pitted (see Note)
- salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 (6- to 7-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
- vegetable oil 4 fresh rosemary sprigs
Place the first eight ingredients in a pot and whisk to combine. Bring the mixture to a simmer, and simmer until the sauce lightly thickens.
Add the cherries, return to a simmer, and simmer the sauce 3 to 4 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to low, cover and reserve the sauce until the chicken is cooked.
Preheat your grill to medium-high. Brush the chicken lightly with the oil; season with salt and pepper.
Lightly oil the bars of the grill. Grill the chicken 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until cooked through. Plate the chicken, top with the sauce, garnish with rosemary sprigs and serve.
Note: Canned sour cherries, available in cans or jars, are sold at many supermarkets and specialty food stores.
