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Ask Eric: Pick a peck of shishito peppers

Touch of Japan makes its way to Victoria cuisine in this mild chili
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Charred Shishito Peppers with Sriracha Mayo makes a nice appetizer to serve with cold beer.

Eric AkisDear Eric: Do you know if there is anywhere in Victoria that you can get shishito peppers?

Don

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Don’s query came in a few months ago. Shortly afterward, I went to various retail locations in Victoria where I thought I might find shishito peppers, didn’t have any luck and let Don know.

Last week, though, Don sent me a note and let me know he did finally find them at the Root Cellar, 1286 McKenzie Ave.

That answered his question on where to buy them, but I can hear some of you asking: What is a shishito pepper?

It’s a fairly small, five-to-10-centimetre-long, wrinkly looking, finger-shaped chili pepper that originates in Japan. Several sources suggest part of its name comes from the Japanese, shishi, meaning lion head, which the tip of this pepper is said to resemble.

Although categorized as a chili pepper, shishito peppers are mild-tasting. In fact, they are quite a bit milder than a jalapeño pepper, which is considered a mild chili. That said, of every 10 or so shishito peppers, one will have a spicier edge than the rest you’ve purchased or grown yourself.

Despite lacking spicy heat, and having only a thin wall of flesh, shishito peppers have a complex, almost meaty flavour.

You can eat them raw as a snack, as you would a radish on a vegetable-and-dip tray. You could also slice them raw and add them to such things as salads, tacos and sushi rolls.

Shishito peppers are also great cooked, and are often served as an appetizer or snack, such as coating the peppers in tempura batter and deep-frying them until crispy. Or by lightly oiling the peppers or the cooking surface, and grilling, broiling or pan-searing them, as I did in today’s recipe, until blistered and lightly charred. Doing that gives the already rich-tasting peppers an added and pleasing smoky taste.

You can also slice and add shishito peppers to soups, or use them whole or sliced in main dishes, such as omelettes, pizzas, noodle bowls and stir-fries.

Shishito peppers are related to Spain’s famed Padrón peppers and look similar, but the latter are stubbier, a touch spicier, less sweet and, to me, not as richly flavoured.

Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sriracha Mayo

These blistered and lightly charred peppers make a nice snack to enjoy with a cold drink, such as beer.

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Preparation time: A few minutes

Cooking time: About six minutes

Makes: Four to six (four to six peppers each) servings

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For the mayo

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 tsp sriracha or hot chili sauce, or to taste

2 tsp honey

2 tsp lime juice

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For the peppers

24 shishito peppers

1 Tbsp olive, vegetable or peanut oil

• sea salt, to taste

Combine mayo ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

Heat the oil in a large cast-iron or other heavy skillet set over medium-high.

When the oil is hot, add the peppers and cook a few minutes on each side, until they begin to blister and are lightly charred. (When done, the peppers should become tender, but not be overly limp and soft.)

Arrange peppers on a platter with the bowl of sriracha mayo alongside for dipping.

Eric Akis is the author of eight cookbooks. His latest is The Great Rotisserie Chicken Cookbook (Appetite by Random House). His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.