Like many self-loathing anglophiles, I am conflicted by equal parts admiration and aversion to all things British. Certainly, it is easy to find fault in English class divisions, dark chapters in the Empire's colonial past, their plumbing and the fluttering nonsense we've come to know as "Kate & Wills."
Yet, I find myself oddly enchanted by certain aspects of Britain's cultural legacy.
Say what you like about the Brits, but in their day they transported many worthwhile contributions to far-flung outposts such as Victoria. Among other things, they've given us some fascinating history, a fondness for eccentrics, more than a few great writers, wonderful sporting traditions, Monty Python and, of course, a common language.
They also shared a number of alcoholic beverages with their colonies that, presumably, helped their citizens keep up appearances while coming to terms with the fact that they were mere "colonials." Most beloved was gin, which has been enjoyed by all classes of British society from the Queen Mum down.
With the Victoria Day long weekend fast approaching, and with it the lazy, hazy days of summer, it is worth saluting the silver lining of our colonial past with some local twists on two quintessentially British gin-based cocktails that signal summer:
Gin and Tonic
No other spirit is tied to British culture and history quite the way gin is, and the Gin & Tonic -or "G&T" -is something the colonies delighted in giving back to the mother country.
During the 19th century, British officers serving in the East India Company discovered that, in sufficient quantities, the quinine in tonic water was useful in combating malaria. The tonic water of the day was vile stuff, however, so to get soldiers to drink it they blended it with soda water, sugar and gin.
Over time, and as tonic water got more refined, the simple G&T with a slice of lime took hold at all levels of society.
Notwithstanding the modest medicinal benefits of gin and tonic (It is worth noting that gin was developed in the 17th century to help treat kidney disorders, and the vitamin C in lime was famous for helping combat scurvy) the best case for a gin and tonic is that it is simply an effervescent and refreshing cocktail best enjoyed on a hot summer's day.
While just about everyone of legal drinking age has enjoyed this cocktail, the "Supreme Gin and Tonic" developed by renowned local mixologist Shawn Soole, manager at Clive's Classic Lounge, takes this famed highball to a whole new level. Tanqueray No. 10 might be Soole's gin of choice, but it is really the Fentimans tonic water that makes the difference, lending its concentrated herb flavours to the mix.
And while Clive's carries an array of homemade bitters you won't find in stores, you can make do with a dash of Angostura Bitters.
SUPREME GIN AND TONIC
1 oz. of Tanqueray No. 10
4 oz. of Fentimans Tonic Water (see Note)
couple of drops of bitters a
- slice of lime
Note: Fentimans products are expensive and notoriously difficult to find, but they are worth the effort. Outside of bars and restaurants, the only place I know of in Victoria that sells Fentimans is Pepper's food market in Cadboro Bay Village. They have a limited supply, though, so call before you go.
Pimm's No. 1 Cup
James Pimm, owner of a successful London Oyster Bar, developed Pimm's No.
1 Cup -a slightly peppery gin-based cocktail with a mixture of herbs and botanicals -in the mid-19th century and marketed it to the middle and lower classes of society. (It was often sold on the street by hawkers on bicycle.)
It's curious that it is now associated with aristocratic sporting events like Wimbledon and the Henley Regatta, where tiddly snobs are very much part of the game.
No matter: Hypocrisy is a highly underrated virtue when it comes to hedonism.
In keeping with that, Pimm's can be guzzled in lowbrow fashion -diluted with lemonade, ginger ale or 7-Up -or sipped highbrow with all-natural fruit juices, soda water and fanciful garnishes such as strawberries, cucumber and mint.
The following is Soole's take on this other British classic:
PIMM'S NO. 1
2 oz. Pimm's No 1 Cup
1 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz. sugar syrup (see Note)
topped with soda water
1 twist lemon peel
1 twist cucumber peel
Note: Don't buy sugar syrup, as it is too easy to make. Heat equal parts sugar and water in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves.
Bring to a boil for four minutes.
Remove from heat and cool before using.
