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National unity goes down easy with a beer

Like many Vancouver Islanders, my concern for what happens in the Rest of sa国际传媒 (ROC) doesn't extend far beyond the Swartz Bay ferry terminal.

Like many Vancouver Islanders, my concern for what happens in the Rest of sa国际传媒 (ROC) doesn't extend far beyond the Swartz Bay ferry terminal.

Indeed, living on an island provides the psychological comfort of being physically removed from a range of concerns our contiguous cousins regularly fret about on the mainland.

Chief among these is the tedious and interminable threat of Quebec separatism, which recently raised its head, yet again, with the election of a Parti Qu脙漏b脙漏cois minority government under Pauline Marois. Yawn.

Insular thinking? Perhaps. But a spouse who threatens to leave the marriage, decade after decade, should not be dissuaded. I am not alone in wishing separatists bonne chance with an independent Quebec.

That said, I would hate to lose French beer. It's one thing anglophones and francophones have a shared history of in this country and we love it equally - like a child of a broken marriage.

We might fight over who gets the dining-room set or the truck, but we all agree to put the best interests of beer first.

In fact, we owe a debt of gratitude to Quebec for creating our country's first commercial brewery in 1668, as well as the Molson's brewing empire, established in 1786. (Molson's arguably did more for national unity with its jingoistic "I am Canadian" ad campaign than any federal government initiative.)

And who can forget the "stubby" beloved by Bob and Doug McKenzie?

That squat fire hydrant of a beer bottle is wistfully remembered in both solitudes.

Our national fondness for the brew also has a curious way of changing perceptions, and sometimes making friends out of adversaries. (Of course, too many beers and the opposite can also hold true.)

I was reminded of the unifying properties of beer last weekend at the 20th anniversary of the Great Canadian Beer Festival, where kegs from across the country came together at Royal Athletic Park in common cause, uniting beer guzzlers of every stripe.

This year's festival saw four new Quebec breweries participating with a range of beers in different styles.

The following beers are all fantastic, and mercifully free of linguistic or cultural division:

Blonde de Chambly

Unibroue, Chambly, Que., 341 mL, 5 per cent alcohol by volume (ABV)

This saison-style beer pours a cloudy pale gold in the glass with a thick white head that quickly dissipates. On the nose are whiffs of black spice, coriander, brioche and fresh fruit. Taste in the mouth is complex with sweet malt, dough, clove and tart citrus in a clean finish. Delicate and refreshing, and with relatively low alcohol, this is a good beer to pair with seafood or salads.

Maudite

Unibroue, Chambly, Que., 341 mL, 8 per cent ABV

Amber in colour, this Belgian-style strong dark ale has pronounced yeast aromas on the nose, combined with apple and dried fruit that are revealed on the palate in a smooth, lingering aftertaste. Try pairing with a hamburger or other barbecued red meat.

Pale Ale Am脙漏ricaine

Les Trois Mousquetaires Microbrasseurs, Broussard, Que., 750 mL, 5 per cent ABV

Dark orange in colour, this American pale ale exhibits aromas of spice, biscuit, caramel and fresh piney hops that blend in the mouth with the added benefit of sweet malt, honey and a hint of molasses. Easy drinking and low in alcohol, it is still big bodied enough to wrestle spicy Cajun cuisine.

La Buteuse - Brassin Sp脙漏cial

Le Trou du Diable Microbrasserie, Shawinigan, Que., 500 mL, 10 per cent ABV

Hazy copper in colour, this New World style Belgian Tripel noses a mix of funky yeast, lemon citrus, apple, fresh hops and candied caramel on the nose, all of which are revealed in the mouth with sweet malt, moderate carbonation, thickness and no lasting aftertaste.

Pair with sharp cheddar or blue cheese.

Vache Folle (Mad Cow)

Imperial Milk Stout Microbrasserrie Charlevoix, BaintSaint-Paul, Que., 750 mL, 9 per cent ABV

This beer will restore your faith in federalism. Molasses-black in colour, this sweet stout has pleasant nuttiness and candied malt with light hops that slide down smooth and creamy with no bitter aftertaste.

Pair with a Pauline Marois speech; the nine per cent alcohol will help take the edge off.

Note: some of these beers are hard to find, but well worth the effort.

Check with your local private retailer to see if they carry one or more, or are willing to order it in the name of saving Confederation.

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