At 51, Singapore is shrugging off all symptoms of a midlife crisis and embracing travellers with more and better things to see, taste and experience than ever before.
The tiny city-state with a living standard the envy of many nations recently celebrated 50 years of independence since being thrown out of the Malaysian federation.
Back then, there was no telling what the future held; the nation鈥檚 founder Lee Kuan Yew reportedly cried as he announced the split. But Singapore has emerged as one of Asia鈥檚 most prosperous, multicultural and stable countries. It鈥檚 also famously clean, with strict laws against littering.
Travellers have long used Singapore as a stopover en route to more exotic Asian destinations. But there鈥檚 enough here for a longer stay.
Attractions can be split into neat categories: colonial heritage, contemporary attractions, ethnic neighbourhoods, food and shopping.
Couple that with stunningly efficient transportation and it鈥檚 easy to plan an itinerary lasting several days.
I started my visit with a walk exploring Singapore鈥檚 British colonial past along the city鈥檚 quays.
Historic buildings here include the Gothic St. Andrew鈥檚 Cathedral, Victoria Theatre and the Empress Place Building, which houses the intriguing Asian Civilisations Museum.
The famous Raffles Hotel is a colonial gem that has hosted the likes of Rudyard Kipling and Michael Jackson, while the Fullerton Hotel was the main post office until 1996. Off the Fullerton, I took time to admire the intricate Cavenagh and Anderson bridges, landing conveniently on Boat Quay, a buzzy waterfront of bars and restaurants. As I walked, I snacked on a mango wafer-ice cream sandwich, topping it off with a kopi, a traditional coffee drink made from beans roasted with butter and sugar, sometimes served with rich condensed milk.
Finish off your heritage walk with some of Singapore鈥檚 striking contemporary architecture: the Norman Foster-designed Supreme Court, the Esplanade Theatres or the flower-shaped ArtScience Museum, reached via the quirky Helix Bridge, shaped like DNA鈥檚 double-helix. The backdrop for all this is the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, one of the world鈥檚 most photographed hotels. Designed to resemble three decks of cards, it鈥檚 joined together at the 57th floor by a stunning SkyPark with the world鈥檚 highest infinity pool, a lounge and bar. Anyone can visit the SkyPark Observation Deck for stunning 360-degree views of the harbour and skyline, but the pool is open only to hotel guests. Rooms are pricey 鈥� more than $330 Cdn a night even in low season (summer-early fall).
Singapore is extremely clean. You鈥檙e not allowed to bring gum into the country, and the U.S. State Department鈥檚 travel advisory warns about physical punishment for vandalism. (I unthinkingly popped a soda open on the subway, then quickly hid it in response to other passengers鈥� disparaging stares.) But ethnic and traditional neighbourhoods are a little less sterile and more colorful than downtown streets.
Chinatown is dotted with temples and buildings attesting to the rich heritage of Malay-born Chinese who immigrated here in the 19th century. You鈥檒l see fine art deco homes on streets like Ann Siang Road. At the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, a tooth ostensibly belonging to the Buddha is encased in a 900-pound solid-gold stupa. Little India is a jolting feast for the senses: busy shops selling anything from cellphones to spices, hole-in-the-wall restaurants with flavourful cuisine, mosques and colorful Hindu temples.
Singapore鈥檚 鈥渉awker centres鈥� are something of a foodie legend. You could spend days shuttling between the biggest ones, sampling from stalls of Singaporean, Indian, Chinese, Malay and Indonesian cuisine. Seating is usually outdoors on shared benches under a canopy. Walk up to a stall and look at the pictures. Then order, pay the cashier and wait for your food (sometimes it will be brought to your table). You can buy different plates from different vendors. Don鈥檛 forget fresh juices (sugar cane is a must) and desserts (mango, please!). I ate satay every day. Also great: the ubiquitous, succulent stir-fried squid with onions, scallions and shallots in a spicy tomato sauce. Most dishes cost around $7 Cdn. Food courts in malls charge a bit more for similar fare, but with air conditioning.
Speaking of malls, Orchard Boulevard is lined with luxury shopping centres, worth a visit for people-watching if not for browsing. Istana, the presidential palace, is at Orchard Road鈥檚 southern end, while the Botanical Garden is at its northern tip.
I skipped the Botanical Garden in favour of Singapore鈥檚 hippest attraction, Gardens by the Bay. Adjacent to Marina Bay Sands, the park is dotted with 鈥淪upertrees鈥� 鈥� structures as tall as 15-story buildings that function as vertical gardens, loaded with exotic plants. A spectacular sound and light show plays here twice every evening, creating a sci-fi forest.
At the Singapore Zoo, most animals live outdoors, cage-free, from penguins and crocodiles to white tigers and polar bears. A combined ticket to the zoo and nearby night safari by tram will save you some cash. Safaris sell out, so book ahead.
All in all, the mix of cultures, food, colonial heritage and modern 鈥� even futuristic 鈥� infrastructure and amenities makes the country an ideal destination. Just be sure to leave your bubblegum home.
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If You Go...
SINGAPORE: http://www.yoursingapore.com/en.html . Tropical climate, frequent rainfall (heaviest November-early January). EZ-Link transit cards cover public transportation and taxis, as well as many food and drink outlets.
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