Climbing the Acropolis, communing with the druids at Stonehenge, or marvelling at the sprawling remains of Pompeii 鈥� exploring the remnants of Europe鈥檚 distant past brings a special thrill to travellers with the interest to resurrect all that rubble.
I had such a thrill recently in Epidavros, where I visited the finest and best preserved of Greece鈥檚 many ancient theatres. With my travel partner sitting on the top row of the stony grandstands, I stood alone in the centre of the stage and, with a clap of my hands, demonstrated its 2,400-year-old acoustics. The theatre here is part of a larger 鈥渟anctuary鈥� 鈥� something of a luxury spa for people in need of a cure 鈥� complete with temples, baths, and a beautiful theatre. It鈥檚 in such good shape that the theatre is still used for performances today.
The grandeur of a well-preserved monument like the Epidavros theatre is easy enough to appreciate even if it鈥檚 been a while since your last history class. But most ancient sites are more ruined 鈥� and therefore harder to imagine in their prime. The Roman Forum is a good example. Knowing it was important 鈥� the common ground between the fabled seven hills of ancient Rome 鈥� doesn鈥檛 necessarily make it interesting. That鈥檚 especially true given that today what鈥檚 left is little more than foundation stones and a few broken columns.
The challenge is to envision the Forum in its day. Stand along the Via Sacra 鈥� the Sacred Way 鈥� on the same stones the masses did as Rome鈥檚 military victors paraded by, displaying their booty and plunder. Imagine spitting into the cage of a barbarian king as it jostles by.
Squinting into the sun, you can make out the carvings on the top of a towering triumphal arch, a reminder that your emperor is a god on Earth and you are lucky to be his subject. In the here and now, it鈥檚 hot and it鈥檚 dusty, and there are sweaty tour groups all around you. But if you can imagine the ancient stones supporting ancient life, it鈥檚 an unforgettable experience and a trip highlight.
In my student days, I bummed through Greece鈥檚 Parthenon surrounded by people looking like they were having a good time 鈥� and I was convinced they were faking it. Two years later, after a class in ancient art history, I understood how Greek society was designed. I could imagine Pericles, the ultimate Athenian statesman, hard at work. I could see Socrates, enjoying the shade of the colonnade. And I could fill the now-empty niches with brightly painted statues of Greek gods and goddesses. Clearly, there are two kinds of sightseers 鈥� those who know what they鈥檙e looking at and those who don鈥檛.
But you don鈥檛 have to go back to school to have a rich experience at an ancient site. There鈥檚 plenty of information available for people who bring only a healthy dose of curiosity to the ancient sites. Local souvenir books have side-by-side illustrations of ancient sites that juxtapose their current look with how they would have appeared in their heyday 鈥� enabling you to imagine it filled with people. Most sights rent audioguides that give you a fine self-guided tour (just punch in the number you see as you wander to hear a narration about a particular work of art or structure). Private guides are almost always available. In anticipation of your visit, it can also be hugely helpful to do a little homework: Do some reading or watch a movie or documentary to get background and insight into the ancient wonders you鈥檒l be exploring.
Archeological areas are being excavated all the time. In fact, many of the sites you鈥檒l see are only partially uncovered. The finest of the discovered statues, mosaics, and frescos are generally out of the weather and acidic air (and the reach of 21st-century vandals), and safely in state-of-the-art museums on-site. Be sure to approach an ancient site as a two-part experience: First tour the museum to see the treasures and get a context for the culture and life in that place and time. Then, with that newfound ability to understand what you鈥檒l be seeing, venture out into the actual excavation site.
With more people than ever touring Europe鈥檚 great ancient sites (including literally millions of sightseers on cruise-ship excursions), congestion has become a major concern. If online reservations in advance are recommended, consider them required. Any time you can get a ticket with a timed entry, it鈥檚 smart to do so. Otherwise, going early or late is a good way to avoid the big tour groups that jam many ancient sites in the middle of the day (roughly between 10.a.m. and 4 p.m.
Europe is better than ever at protecting and sharing its ancient patrimony. And if you approach its ancient wonders thoughtfully, you鈥檒l bring home an appreciation of the artistic wonders of antiquity and life-long memories.
Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. You can email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.
