England鈥檚 best city within two hours of London is beautiful, historic Bath. The city is popular and expensive, but it鈥檚 a joy to visit. And rather than deal with London鈥檚 intensity right off the bat, I like to take the train from the airport to London鈥檚 Paddington Station and then hop on a connection to this more relaxed and elegant example of urban England.
Bath was a joy even in ancient Roman times, when patricians soaked in the city鈥檚 mineral springs. From Londinium (today鈥檚 London), Romans travelled so often to 鈥淎quae Sulis,鈥� as the city was called, to 鈥渢ake a bath鈥� that finally it became known simply as 鈥淏ath.鈥� Today, a fine museum surrounds the ancient bathing site. With the help of a great audioguide, visitors can wander past well-documented displays, Roman artifacts, excavated foundations, and the actual mouth of the health-giving spring.
Bath later prospered as a wool town, building its grand abbey about 500 years ago 鈥� the last great medieval church built in England. The abbey鈥檚 facade features a very literal Jacob鈥檚 Ladder 鈥� with angels going up鈥� and down. The interior has breezy fan vaulting and is lit with enough stained glass that it feels like the inside of a giant lantern.
By the middle of the 1600s, Bath鈥檚 heyday had passed, and its population dropped to about 1,500 people 鈥� just a huddle of huts at the base of the abbey. Then, in 1687, King James II鈥檚 wife, Queen Mary, struggling with infertility, came here and bathed. Within about 10 months she gave birth to a son. A few decades later, her stepdaughter, Queen Anne, came here to treat her gout. With all this royal interest, Bath was reborn as a resort.
Most of the buildings you鈥檒l see in Bath today are from the 18th century 鈥� the cityscape is a triumph of the Neoclassical style that dominated the Georgian era, most of it built from the same honey-coloured limestone. Free, fascinating town walks are offered every day by volunteers who bring to life highlights of this Georgian heritage 鈥� such as the Circus and Royal Crescent building complexes.
The Circus is like a coliseum turned inside out, with Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian capital decorations that pay homage to its Greco-Roman origin 鈥� a reminder that Bath (with its seven hills) aspired to be 鈥渢he Rome of England.鈥� About a block away, the Royal Crescent is a long, graceful arc of buildings 鈥� impossible to see in one glance unless you step way back to the edge of the park in front. You can go inside one of these classy facades at No. 1 Royal Crescent, now a museum where you can see how the wealthy lived in 18th-century Bath.
During the Georgian era, Bath was the trendsetting Tinseltown of Britain, where the filthy rich went to escape the filthy cities. A professional gambler named Beau Nash followed his clients (and their money) to this resort town 鈥� and then acted as its one-man tourism promotion department. He organized daily activities, did matchmaking and helped spiff up the city. Today, his statue stands above the Roman baths.
You can see how natty Georgian-era folks dressed at the Fashion Museum 鈥� which exhibits historic garments from every era since the days when there were no right or left shoes, all the way up to the present. A major feature of the museum is the 鈥淒ress of the Year鈥� display, ongoing since 1963. Above the Fashion Museum, you can view the city鈥檚 historic Assembly Rooms, where card games, concerts, tea and dances were held (before fancy hotels with grand public spaces made them obsolete).
After a day of sightseeing, street theatre is a fun evening option and a ritual for me in Bath. The best hour and a half of laughs I鈥檝e had anywhere in Britain is on the Bizarre Bath Comedy Walk. They promise to include 鈥渁bsolutely no history or culture鈥� during their wander of Bath鈥檚 back lanes. Listening to the guides is always a delight 鈥� they might tell the same old jokes, but they鈥檙e spiced up with a sharp, ad-lib wit that plays off the international crowd.
I also enjoy the Thermae Bath Spa, particularly during chilly evening visits, when Bath鈥檚 twilight glows through the steam from the rooftop pool. It鈥檚 pricey, but it鈥檚 the only natural thermal spa in the U.K., and your one chance to actually bathe in Bath.
Another of my favourite cappers for a day in Bath is heading to a pub to have scrumpy 鈥� 鈥渉ard hard cider.鈥� It鈥檚 notoriously strong: When I last ordered it, everyone stopped what they were doing just to see what would happen.
From its evening indulgences to its elegant architecture, Bath combines beauty and hospitality better than most. It鈥檚 a place drenched in history, but made for relaxation.
Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.
