If there鈥檚 an industrial wasteland where a great European city hits the water 鈥� London, Berlin, Amsterdam, you name it 鈥� it鈥檚 slated for a major makeover.
Derelict areas on the wrong side of the river 鈥� what we in the U.S. might call 鈥渢he wrong side of the tracks鈥� 鈥� are being rejuvenated with modern buildings and fresh greenery.
My pick for one of Europe鈥檚 most impressive urban overhauls is London鈥檚 Docklands. In the early 1800s, the Docklands was the home port of 鈥渢he empire upon which the sun never set鈥� 鈥� so it became the world鈥檚 leading harbour.
But after being destroyed by Nazi bombers during the Second World War, the Docklands struggled and declined.
Several decades later, investors realized the area was ripe for redevelopment, construction took off and the neighbourhood called Canary Wharf was born.
Hop on the Tube to go out there and immerse yourself in today鈥檚 London. Where sailors once drank grog and stevedores unloaded cargo, thousands of office workers (the stevedores of the Information Age) populate a forest of skyscrapers, towering high above the remnants of the Industrial Age.
Like most of Europe鈥檚 redevelopment projects, Canary Wharf was designed with a futuristic people-friendliness. Locals enjoy plenty of green spaces, art-filled plazas, trendy caf茅s and pedestrian bridges that arc over waterways.
Yet traces of its illustrious shipping roots can still be found. For instance, a row of 19th-century brick warehouses still lines the canal. An old sugar warehouse now houses the Museum of London Docklands, which tells the story of the world鈥檚 busiest 19th-century port.
Of any place in Europe, Berlin is a work in progress 鈥� a place you need to be in every couple of years to see how it鈥檚 developing. One way to take it all in is to enjoy the vibrant scene along the Spree River.
During the Cold War, Berlin turned its back on its riverbank. Much of it was a militarized 鈥渄eath strip鈥� 鈥� part of the Berlin Wall that separated people on the East from the West.
The East German regime even put nets underwater to stymie those swimming to the West for freedom.
What鈥檚 most remarkable about Berlin is how it鈥檚 gone from a home base of aggression to the capital of chill.
Today the riverbank is a people-friendly park lined with impromptu 鈥渂eachside鈥� beer gardens with imported sand, barbecues in pocket parks and locals walking their dogs, taking a lazy bike ride or jogging against the backdrop of stunning new governmental architecture.
It鈥檚 easy to join the scene 鈥� just grab a drink and lounge chair, walk or bike along the trail that leads from the cathedral to the main train station or hop aboard a riverboat cruise.
Another city in transition is Amsterdam, where a new north-to-south subway line is being built.
This will move much of the transportation clutter across the wide IJ waterway to Amsterdam鈥檚 (until now) underdeveloped north bank.
Long neglected as a sleepy residential zone, this side of the water 鈥� which will get a huge boost when the new transit hub opens 鈥� is on its way to becoming a smart people-zone. Heralding the coming gentrification of this area is the striking new EYE Film Institute, with a complex of museum spaces, theatres playing art films and a trendy terrace caf茅 with great waterside seating.
One of the most exciting revitalization projects in all of Europe is in Oslo (though, being Norwegian, maybe I鈥檓 biased).
Oslo is a classic old Norwegian city. But in recent visits, I鈥檝e been amazed at some of the dramatic changes going on here. The main construction centres around an ambitious urban-renewal project called Fjord City (Fjordbyen).
In a few years, Oslo鈥檚 waterfront will be an eight-kilometre-long strolling and biking promenade, with nearly all traffic zipping through the city in underground tunnels.
Oslo鈥檚 harbourfront was dominated by the Aker Brygge shipyard until it closed in 1986. Today, Aker Brygge is a promenade 鈥� each night it鈥檚 a Nordic paseo.
I like to enjoy the scene with a simple picnic from a grocery store. The harbourfront comes with lots of picnic tables, comfy wooden lounges for two, and places where those citizens who can鈥檛 afford the pricey restaurants can still enjoy the same views.
One harbour over from Aker Brygge, Oslo鈥檚 striking Opera House 鈥� opened in 2008 鈥� is still the talk of the town. Its white-marble roof slopes into the fjord, creating a public plaza, allowing the people of Oslo to walk on top of the theatre they helped fund. Inside, a 1,400-seat performance hall brings ballet and opera to the masses.
All across Europe, cities are investing in the future and reinventing themselves. And, after a lifetime of travelling there, I never get bored. With ever-changing cityscapes and a dedication to good living, Europe鈥檚 cities keep me on my toes.
听
Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.
