From Romans to Moors to Portuguese kings, the proud little town of 脡vora 鈥� set amid the cork groves of Portugal鈥檚 Alentejo region 鈥� has a big history.
Just 90 minutes east of Lisbon, 脡vora has impressive sights 鈥� Roman ruins, a 12th-century cathedral and a macabre chapel of bones 鈥� coupled with a laid-back local scene and a hearty cuisine that makes me think of Tuscany.
From the second century sa国际传媒 to the fourth century AD, 脡vora was a Roman town important for its wealth of wheat and silver, as well as its location on a trade route to Rome. From the eighth to the 12th century, the Moors ruled 脡vora.
During its Renaissance glory years, 脡vora was favoured by Portuguese kings, even serving as the home of King Jo茫o III, who presided over Portugal鈥檚 peak of power (and its first decline).
脡vora鈥檚 walled city is compact. The main sights cluster within a five-minute walk of the main square, Pra莽a do Giraldo 鈥� named for Giraldo the Fearless, the Christian knight who led a surprise attack and retook 脡vora from the Moors in 1165.
As thanks, Giraldo was made governor of the town and the symbol of the city.
The square served as the town鈥檚 market during the Moorish period, and to this day, it remains a centre of commerce and conviviality for country folk who come to 脡vora for their weekly shopping.
Radiating out from this town hub are traditionally decorated cobbled streets 鈥� centuries old and protected by law.
Many buildings here are trimmed with yellow, as is common for this region 鈥� the colour is believed to repel evil spirits. Jacaranda trees that were imported from South America 200 years ago provide shade through the summer and purple flowers in the spring.
Lining the streets are fine eateries and shops selling local products, including cork (everything from purses to postcards), tile, leather, ironwork and Arraiolos rugs (handmade with a distinctive weave in a nearby town).
If you wander 脡vora, you鈥檒l see several remnants of the Roman wall that once encircled the town.
But the most intact Roman ruin is up a hill, at the town鈥檚 high point: 14 Corinthian columns, marking the Roman temple that once stood here. Today, open-air concerts and events are staged against this evocative temple backdrop, which is beautifully floodlit at night.
The Museum of 脡vora stands where the Roman forum once sprawled. An excavated section of the forum is in the museum鈥檚 courtyard, surrounded by a delightful mix of Roman finds, medieval statuary and 16th-century Portuguese, Flemish, Italian, and Spanish paintings.
Also topping the hill is 脡vora鈥檚 cathedral 鈥� a transitional mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles, standing on the site of a former mosque.
Inside the cathedral is a 15th-century painted marble statue of a pregnant Mary. Throughout the Alentejo, people have a deeply felt affinity for this ready-to-produce-a-saviour Mary.
Across the aisle, a more realistic Renaissance Gabriel, added a century later, comes to tell Mary her baby won鈥檛 be just any child. For great views of the surrounding plains, head up to the church鈥檚 rooftop terrace.
While the cathedral is impressive, I prefer the more intimate Church of St. Francis, built in the 14th century by the Franciscans. The highlight here is its Chapel of Bones, where thousands of human bones line the walls and a chorus of skulls stares blankly at you.
The chapel was the work of three monks who were concerned that their society valued the wrong things.
They thought the chapel would provide 脡vora, a town noted for its wealth in the early 1600s, with a helpful place to meditate on the transience of material things in the undeniable presence of death.
The thought-provoking message above the chapel door translates as: 鈥淲e bones in here wait for yours to join us.鈥�
After meditating on mortality, it鈥檚 time to return to the land of the living.
For a fine slice-of-life look at this community, head to the nearby farmers market, with a fragrant fish section, fresh produce and good little eateries.
Or you can pick up picnic food to eat in the pleasant public garden next to the church.
If you want to try the locals鈥� favourite pastry, queijada (sweet cheese tart), you can buy one fresh from the kiosk caf茅 inside the park.
While you can zip in and out of 脡vora on a day trip from Lisbon, I prefer to spend the night and savour dinner at one of the town鈥檚 fine restaurants. The Alentejo region has its own proud, rustic cuisine with lots of game and robust red wines.
Linger over dinner, then, late in the evening, stroll the beautiful back streets and embrace the chance to just enjoy a ramshackle workaday town in the countryside of Portugal.
Rick Steves () writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on .
