Lots of tourists go to Palestine, but I鈥檇 estimate a vast majority of them do it in a rush from Jerusalem to Bethlehem just to see the Church of the Nativity in Manger Square. (Bethlehem is just over the wall that separates Israel and Palestine, about 10 kilometres away.) They then return directly to Israel without spending a single shekel in restaurants or hotels in the West Bank. Obviously, there鈥檚 much more to experience in this country.
While the region鈥檚 hardscrabble vibe may be a bit too edgy for some North Americans, it鈥檚 amazing how, after a couple of days in Palestine, you feel right at home. Walking through the wall from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, all you need is your passport. Palestine uses Israeli currency. Just cross the border and haggle with the taxis 鈥� and after spending about $5 and 10 minutes, you鈥檙e looking at the spot where Jesus is thought to have been born. If there were no border or traffic to deal with, you could cycle from the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem to the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem in 15 minutes.
If you come, you鈥檒l find that Bethlehem is no longer just the 鈥渓ittle town鈥� of Christmas carol fame. It鈥檚 a leading Palestinian city, sprawling and almost indiscernible from greater Jerusalem. It鈥檚 not a pretty town. Most homes and businesses stand behind security walls and fences.
But Bethlehem has a special energy and a very cool Arabic vibe, especially in the early evening. The Arab market is colourful. The skyline is a commotion of crescents and crosses 鈥� a reminder that the town, while almost totally Arab, remains a mix of Muslims and Christians.
Not all Arabs are Muslims, a fact that surprises some. When meeting an Arab Christian, many western tourists ask when the family converted. The answer is usually, 鈥渁bout 2,000 years ago, back when Jesus鈥檚 disciples were doing missionary work around here.鈥�
Another surprise is on Bethlehem鈥檚 main square. For more than 100 years, the Mosque of Omar has shared Manger Square with the Church of the Nativity. Jesus and Mary are both a big deal for Muslims. I had a joyous interview with an imam after filming a prayer service in his mosque. He explained: 鈥淏ethlehem is holy for Muslims, as well as Christians. For Muslims, Jesus is a major prophet. We also revere Mother Mary. In fact, an entire chapter in the Qur鈥檃n is named for her.鈥� We sat cross-legged on the carpet of his mosque for an interview. I asked him to let me hear how he talks to God (but in English) and his prayer literally brought me to tears. As we hugged, I could feel the pull of Islam.
Across the square in the Church of the Nativity, Christian pilgrims waited to touch, kiss and pray upon the spot where Jesus is believed to have been born. In AD 326, Roman Emperor Constantine sent his mother, St. Helena, to establish three churches in the Holy Land: Church of the Nativity, Church of the Holy Sepulchre (where Jesus is believed to have been crucified) and one on the Mount of Olives (where Jesus is thought to have ascended into heaven).
Today, Bethlehem鈥檚 Church of the Nativity is oldest because the others were destroyed, then rebuilt. It is regarded as the oldest Christian church in daily use.
While our image of 鈥渘o room at the inn鈥� is brick and wood, the 鈥渋nn鈥� of Bible fame was very likely a series of caves. And 鈥渘o room鈥� likely meant that a woman about to give birth would not be welcome in the main quarters, as birth was considered unclean. Mary was sent out to give birth to Jesus in the manger cave, where the animals hung out.
So a cavern beneath the church 鈥� the Grotto of the Nativity 鈥� is the focal point of your visit. You take the steps by the church altar down into what鈥檚 been regarded since the second century as the site of Christ鈥檚 birth. A silver star in the floor marks the spot.
I鈥檓 glad when visiting Bethlehem I didn鈥檛 just blitz in for a quickie from Jerusalem. After a couple of days in Palestine, I was really impressed by how much fun it was to simply be there. There鈥檚 a resilience, a welcoming spirit and a warmth that is striking.
While I didn鈥檛 see many North Americans overnighting it (except for a few Christian and political tour groups), everywhere we went, we鈥檇 hear, 鈥淲elcome to Palestine.鈥� It was as if people just were thrilled they had a name for their country, and someone from the outside was here to see it.
Next: Visiting the Tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron.
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Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts a travel shows on KCST Seattle. For an extensive and behind-the-scenes look at his recent travels and TV shoot in Israel and Palestine, see his blog on Facebook.
