Rick Steves has been travelling in Israel and Palestine to film a documentary about these complex and fascinating places. This is the final article in a four-part series about his impressions of the Holy Land.
听
听
Walking through the Hebron market, I dodged the head of a camel dangling from a chain. I love travelling through the Palestinian Territories. It鈥檚 filled with vivid memories and startling moments. I had no idea the people of Hebron had a taste for camel. But I was told that people here appreciate a nice, fresh camel steak because of their Bedouin heritage. And the butcher shops seem to follow that tradition. They butcher whatever they have to sell and it hangs on their front porch until it鈥檚 all gone.
Today, with about 250,000 people, Hebron is the largest Palestinian city and the commercial capital of the West Bank. It鈥檚 a commotion of ramshackle commerce as its population generates about 30 per cent of the West Bank鈥檚 economy. Just about an hour鈥檚 drive from Jerusalem, it鈥檚 a rewarding place to visit.
Hebron is an ancient city with archeological finds going back 5,000 years. For thousands of years it鈥檚 been a city of great religious importance. In the hierarchy of holy religious cities, Hebron makes the top four for both Jews and Muslims.
While the old town thrives with commerce, there is a palpable unease that makes just being here stressful. That鈥檚 because Hebron is the site of the Tomb of Abraham, the great prophet and the epic father of both the Arab and Jewish people. Hebron is holy for Jews, Muslims and Christians. That鈥檚 why sharing it peaceably is a challenge.
Hebron feels like a thoroughly Arab town, except for a small community of a few hundred determined Zionist Jews who live mostly on the high ground in the town centre. While it is not an easy place to live, they鈥檙e driven by their faith, believing it is important not to abandon the burial site of their patriarch. They are protected by 2,000 Israeli troops, posted here for their security.
Sightseeing here was joyful and sad at the same time. The Arab market was a festival of commerce, but checkpoints, security fences and industrial-strength turnstiles are a way of life. Being here with our TV crew was tense. Walking down Hebron鈥檚 boarded-up 鈥済host street鈥� was not enjoyable; it鈥檚 a no man鈥檚 land (with pro-Israeli political art decorating shuttered buildings) dividing the two communities. Meeting Jewish settlers, so vastly outnumbered, I felt a sense of embattlement on their part.
The Tomb of Abraham sits on a holy spot under a Crusader church. Its foundation wall 鈥� which dates back at least 2,000 years 鈥� is made of 鈥淗erod Stones,鈥� quarried and cut during King Herod鈥檚 reign. Each stone, like the Western Wall so beloved by Jews back in Jerusalem, has a distinctive and decorative carved border. Today, the building 鈥� called the Tomb of the Patriarchs because it houses Sarah, Isaac, and Jacob as well as Abraham 鈥� is divided to serve both Jewish and Muslim worshippers.
The site is split because of its bloody history. In 1994, during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, a Jewish settler gunned down 29 Muslim worshippers here and wounded another 125 people. Since then, the holy spot has been divided 鈥� half mosque and half synagogue 鈥� with each community getting a chance to pray at the tomb of Abraham separated by bulletproof glass.
That massacre wasn鈥檛 the first. In 1929, local Arabs went on a rampage, killing 67 Jews and destroying Jewish homes and synagogues. More than 400 Jews survived the bloodbath because they were hidden by their Arab neighbours.
I visited both sides. On the synagogue side, devout Jews gathered to study, sing and pray among the tombs. When I was there, a group of soldiers, mostly recent immigrants, were visiting with a teacher to learn about their Jewish heritage. According to their faith, the Tomb of the Patriarchs marks the first Jewish possession in the land of Israel. Abraham purchased the burial plot almost 4,000 years ago, as explained in Genesis 23. Each soldier took turns bobbing in prayer at the foot of Abraham鈥檚 tomb, just a few feet and a bulletproof pane of glass away from another window where Muslims gathered to pray as well.
On the mosque side stands a venerable 鈥渕imber鈥� 鈥� a staircase from which the imam gives sermons. A standard feature in mosques, the mimber represents how teachers, spreading the word of the Prophet Muhammad to a growing number of followers, had to stand ever higher on a staircase to be heard. This one is a rare original from the 11th century made of inlaid wood with no nails, one of the oldest Islamic wooden pulpits in the world. Above the Muslim worshippers was a silent Israeli security camera keeping an eye on things.
Leaving Hebron, I wondered what Abraham would think about the inability of his feuding descendants to live together. In this land 鈥� so treasured by Jews, Muslims and Christians 鈥� I鈥檓 reminded that the prophets of each of these religions taught us to love our neighbours. Here鈥檚 hoping the lessons learned while travelling in the Holy Land can inspire us all to strive for that ideal.
Shalom. Salam. Peace.
听
Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts a travel show on KCTS Seattle. For an extensive look at his recent travels and TV shoot in Israel and Palestine, see his blog on Facebook.
