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Rick Steves: Money-savvy Germany is a cultural powerhouse, too

While Germany sits in the driver鈥檚 seat of Europe鈥檚 economy, it听doesn鈥檛 take a cultural backseat either. Here are a few of the latest developments: Berlin is trying to finish construction of its new, five-billion-euro ($7.
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Sightseers visit Berlin's new memorial honoring the Roma and Sinti victims of Hitler's genocide.

While Germany sits in the driver鈥檚 seat of Europe鈥檚 economy, it听doesn鈥檛 take a cultural backseat either. Here are a few of the latest developments:

Berlin is trying to finish construction of its new, five-billion-euro ($7.6 billion Cdn) airport: Willy Brandt Berlin-Brandenburg International. But the project has been perennially delayed by a faulty fire-safety system, glitches in the baggage-sorting equipment and other technical problems; a partial opening in 2014 is possible, but not likely.

Although Berlin opened its new main train station (Hauptbahnhof) in 2006, construction is likely to begin again in 2014 to extend its roof. For the duration, many travellers may be diverted through other stations 鈥 such as Bahnhof Zoo and Ostbahnof.

Berlin, the scene of so much tumult in the 20th century, does not forget the victims. Near the powerfully evocative Memorial to the Murdered Jews is a memorial dedicated to the homosexual victims of Hitler鈥檚 rule, and a new Roma and Sinti memorial. The latter is to remind all who mourn the slaughter of six million Jews during the Holocaust that Hitler aimed to exterminate Europe鈥檚 Roma and Sinti population as well. While Berlin has done what it can to keep the focus off Hitler himself, the parking lot that sits over the site of Hitler鈥檚 bunker is a few minutes鈥 walk from these other memorials. The site (where he committed suicide just days before the end of the Second World War) comes with an information board to explain the significance of the spot.

A multi-year renovation project continues at Museum Island, filled with some of Berlin鈥檚 most impressive museums. Beginning in the fall and continuing until 2019, the star of the Greek antiquities collection in the Pergamon Museum 鈥 the Pergamon Altar 鈥 will be closed to visitors. The museum鈥檚 north wing (formerly home to other classical antiquities) is already closed. In the meantime, some classical Greek artifacts can be seen at the nearby Altes Museum. Reserved, timed-entry tickets are no longer required at the Pergamon and Neues museums.

Hamburg is one of Germany鈥檚 wealthiest cities and a major financial, commercial, and media centre. As is the case with port cities all over Europe, Germany鈥檚 leading port saw its docklands abandoned as freighters needed to be accommodated in a more modern setting outside of town. The rundown (yet central) real estate of the old harbour has been given new life with a massive renewal project 鈥 HafenCity. Its shining glory is the new Elbphilharmonie concert hall, which looks like a glass palace resting on top of an old warehouse. However, like Berlin鈥檚 airport, the concert hall has hit major snags. It鈥檚 about 270 million euros ($411 million Cdn) over budget and won't be opening until 2017 鈥 about seven years late.

To the south, travellers sleeping in the Bavarian town of听Fuessen are now entitled to the听Fuessen Card, paid for by the听hotel tax. This card allows free use of public transportation in the immediate region (including the bus to 鈥淢ad鈥 King听Ludwig鈥檚 famous castle 鈥 Neuschwanstein), as well as discounts to major attractions. Similarly, the Aktiv-Card for the Reutte area just across the border in Austria includes free travel on local buses and free admission to some attractions. Also new in Reutte, the Alpentherme Ehrenberg is an extensive swimming pool and sauna complex, featuring two indoor pools and a big saltwater outdoor pool, as well as two waterslides.

In Frankfurt, the new European Central Bank building, with its glistening twin towers topping out at 185 metres, is scheduled to open in 2014. The 鈥淣ew Frankfurt Old Town鈥 construction project, stretching from the cathedral to the city hall, is also underway. It will include up to 35听new buildings, several of which will be reproductions of historic structures destroyed during Second World War air raids.

In Nuremberg, the Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg) has reopened after a restoration. Visits to the castle鈥檚 鈥淒eep Well鈥 (which, at 50 metres, is, well, deep) are now accompanied by a guide. Wittenberg鈥檚 Town Church of St. Mary鈥檚 鈥 which was Martin Luther鈥檚 home church for many years 鈥 is being renovated. From early 2014 to early 2015, the nave of the church will be closed, and no organ concerts will be held. Planning ahead, Germany鈥檚 many Luther sights (especially in the Luther cities of Wittenberg, Erfurt and Eisenacht) are gearing up for a very festive 2017 (on a Lutheran scale anyway) 鈥 the 500th anniversary of Luther kicking off the Protestant Reformation in 1517.

Despite a few construction-related delays and closures, Germany is one of the easiest places to travel 鈥 offering efficient public transportation, awesome museums and locals who are ready and willing to give travellers a hearty 鈥淲illkommen.鈥

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts a travel show on KCTS Seattle. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.