One thing I enjoy about my work is getting my outdated impressions back up to date. Europe is always changing 鈥� and recently, I discovered that Sicily鈥檚 capital of Palermo has become a whole new city in recent years. It鈥檚 cleaner, safer and more efficient than it was in years past. But it still retains its colourful edge 鈥� and that鈥檚 why I love it.
Over the past decade, Palermo has revitalized itself with new museums, gentrified neighbourhoods, pedestrianized streets and upscale shops and hotels. The Mafia鈥檚 influence has also significantly diminished. Sure, the traffic is a free-for-all, and even the city鈥檚 prettiest public spaces are rough around the edges. It鈥檚 similar to Naples in that regard 鈥� but most visitors come to appreciate Palermo鈥檚 grittiness and what locals call its 鈥渂ella chaos.鈥�
The heart of the city is Quattro Canti (鈥淔our Corners鈥�). It鈥檚 where two main streets 鈥� Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emanuele 鈥� intersect, dividing the city into four major historical neighbourhoods. Between the streets are four Baroque facades, each adorned with three tiers of statues. The bottom statues represent the four seasons, from a young maiden for spring to an elderly woman for winter.
A few steps from Quattro Canti is a trio of glorious churches, facing each other across Piazza Bellini: La Martorana, with gorgeous gilded mosaics; San Cataldo, filling a former mosque; and the highlight 鈥� Santa Caterina, where a simple exterior hides an explosive Sicilian Baroque interior.
Nearby, in Piazza Pretoria, the famous 鈥淔ountain of Shame鈥� is one of the few Renaissance works here. Its gathering of marble statues includes gods, goddesses and grotesques on several tiers, with the virgin goddess of hunt, Diana, presiding above the commotion. The nickname comes from the nude figures 鈥� considered quite racy in conservative Sicily.
While Palermo can seem a bit ramshackle, behind its decaying walls hide exquisite noble mansions reminding visitors of the island鈥檚 rich heritage. One of my favourite places to sneak a glimpse of aristocratic life is Palazzo Conte Federico, an elegant and extremely lived-in mansion built upon the city wall. Count Federico鈥檚 family has lived here for centuries, and the current count is a race-car enthusiast (though after he flipped his car in a Sicilian road race, the countess said: 鈥淣o more racing鈥�). Tours of the mansion are led by their sons.
Perhaps the most fascinating sight is about three kilometres from the centre, in a crypt below a Capuchin monastery. The Capuchins, a branch of the Franciscan order, have a passion for reminding people of their mortality. Historically, when one of their monastic brothers died, their bones were saved and put on display. The Capuchins of Palermo took this tradition a step further, preserving bodies in their entirety.
Inside the Catacombs of the Capuchins, a maze of corridors contains about 2,000 clothed skeletons and mummies: monks in brown robes, women wearing favourite dresses, priests in their vestments, soldiers still in uniform and children looking almost as if they were just taking a long nap. The oldest body 鈥� Brother Silvestro 鈥� has been hanging here since 1599. These 鈥渂odies without souls鈥� are meant to remind the living that their time on Earth is transitory, and something much greater awaits. If you believe in God, this crypt is actually a beautiful celebration of life. At the very least, it鈥檚 a thought-provoking reminder of your mortality.
Palermo became a major city after the ninth-century arrival of the Arabs, who were the first inhabitants to spur the city鈥檚 development. In the 11th century, the Normans, arriving from northern France, conquered and re-Christianized Sicily. Yet the Arab influence lives on.
A great example is at the Palatine Chapel, built in the 12th century inside the Norman rulers鈥� royal residence. The king at the time hired architects and craftsmen from different communities, and together they built a simple Norman structure with Arab-style arches and geometric designs, then adorned the walls and ceiling with shimmering Norman-Byzantine mosaics.
Arab influence is also felt in Palermo鈥檚 street markets, where merchants retain the tradition of singing their sales pitches. My favourite place to witness this is the Ballar貌 Market, the city鈥檚 oldest, most authentic and liveliest market. And the Vucciria Market, despite having just a smattering of meat, fish and produce vendors, has one of the city鈥檚 best street food scenes 鈥� a one-stop shop for boiled octopus, spleen sandwiches and Sicily鈥檚 famous fried rice balls (arancine).
While the Vucciria neighbourhood is lively in the morning, it鈥檚 even better after hours. Make it a point to explore its characteristic back lanes at night, where you鈥檒l likely stumble onto a wonderfully convivial scene under the stars 鈥� a kaleidoscope of edgy graffiti, cheap plastic chairs, soccer on the big screen, big-eyed kids with gelato and people embracing life with Sicilian gusto.
Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.
