Back in the summer of 1969, I took my first trip to Europe. My聽father, a piano importer, brought me to Vienna鈥檚 B枚sendorfer piano factory.
Together, my dad and I watched the world鈥檚 finest pianos being built by hand, in hundreds of meticulous steps.
Each hand-crafted piano had its own personality.
And, as I played a selection of new pianos, my dad analyzed the personality of each and matched it to a client鈥檚 taste back home.
Witnessing and enjoying this amazing Old World craftsmanship in person inspired in me a special appreciation of Europe 鈥� especially Vienna.
This city鈥檚 devotion to the musical arts and its democratic embrace of culture are inspirational. In the first hours of a recent trip here, still bleary with jet lag, I stepped out of my hotel to get a feel for the city.
I walked 50 metres to the open square in front of the Vienna State Opera 鈥� arguably the greatest opera house in Europe. There, on a big outdoor screen, the night鈥檚 opera (Puccini鈥檚 Manon Lescaut 鈥� sold out, as they all are) was being streamed live for anyone to enjoy. In Vienna, highbrow music is the stuff of daily life.
Music lovers come to Vienna on a kind of pilgrimage. The homes of Schubert, Brahms, Haydn, Beethoven and Mozart all host museums 鈥� but they are small and rather forgettable.
For the best music-history experience, I skip the composers鈥� houses and head for the Haus der Musik. It鈥檚 wonderfully interactive, letting visitors learn and have fun at the same time.
You can play musical scales with your feet on a staircase that functions like a keyboard, or try your hand at conducting a virtual orchestra. You鈥檒l also find fine exhibits honouring the great Viennese composers and lots of actual historic artifacts.
Vienna was historically such a mecca for classical music because of the passion and patronage of the ruling Hapsburg family.
These music-loving royals ruled Austria for more than six centuries from Vienna, and this imperial legacy makes the city one of the world鈥檚 most livable places.
The city centre is skyscraper-free, pedestrian-friendly, speckled with leafy parks and cosy caf茅s, and a joy to bike through.
Throughout this compact core, the elegant architecture and opulent facades remain from when Vienna was one of Europe鈥檚 great capital cities.
The old centre is corralled by its grand circular Ringstrasse. In the 1860s, Emperor Franz Josef had Vienna鈥檚 medieval wall torn down.
He replaced it with this impressive boulevard, which arcs nearly five kilometres around the city core.
One of Europe鈥檚 great streets, the Ringstrasse is lined with many of Vienna鈥檚 top sights.
For a handy do-it-yourself budget tour, you can hop on a tram and make the loop. Because this ring road is actually older than all the buildings that line it, what you see is very 鈥淣eo:鈥� Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, Neoclassical and Neo-Baroque.
The choice of style seems to fit each building鈥檚 function.
The Austrian parliament building is Neoclassical 鈥� because democracy came from ancient Greece. The city hall is Neo-Gothic 鈥� recalling the age when local merchants ran the government.
The museum buildings are Neo-Renaissance 鈥� for a spirit of arts and learning. And Vienna鈥檚 Imperial Court Theatre (Burgtheater) is Neo-Baroque 鈥� from the age when opera and theatre flourished.
The Hapsburg family ruled Europe鈥檚 greatest empire from two luxurious Vienna palaces.
Sch枚nbrunn Palace, with its expansive grounds standing at the edge of the city, was their summer residence. Their main palace, the Hofburg, dominates the town centre. This imposing and sprawling complex grew with the family empire from the 13th century until just before the First World War.
While the last Habsburg checked out in 1918, the palace is still plenty busy. It has the offices of the Austrian president and is home to the Spanish Riding School (with its famous Lipizzaner stallions) and the Vienna Boys鈥� Choir 鈥� not to mention hundreds of government workers.
And the heart of the palace welcomes the public to tour the sumptuous Imperial Apartments.
This final wing of the Hofburg was built to a standard of imperial splendor befitting the Habsburgs鈥� god-like, unquestioned status, even though it was already the age of the automobile, just a few years before the First World War 鈥� and the end of their long dynasty.
Now, after losing that war and its empire, Vienna is more laid-back.
The city enjoys the cultural and physical remnants of its imperial past as both an inspiration and a playground for living well.
It must be nice to be past your prime 鈥� no longer troubled by being powerful, able to kick back and enjoy the good life Viennese style: masterful music, wonderful pastries and awe-inspiring art.
Rick Steves () writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on .
